Astroman, Yosemite Valley, with Anton Olausson
Brushing
the Veil
“There are cracks to other
worlds, places in our daily existence where you can pry the walls open and
arrive on the other side—if you can get your fingers around the edges.”
-Derek Franz, The Door and the Guillotine, Alpinist 36
-Derek Franz, The Door and the Guillotine, Alpinist 36
“The Harding
Slot is a dark place,” an old-timer in the Valley warned me. I’d heard talk of how narrow it is, so I
figured it would be dark inside. Eager
for the glory of success, I was enamored by the idea of getting up there and
grunting it out. I wouldn’t understand
his meaning until I actually did.
In the
middle of the Slot I reached a point where I was stuck, exhausting myself
trying to make progress but unable to make any. I strained my neck to look down
and in my peripheral vision could just make out the rope dangling freely from
my harness toward my last gear, dozens of feet below. I knew enough to recognize that I couldn’t
retreat, there was no other option; I had
to free climb out of this thing.
I hit a
point of hopelessness. It was so damn
hard; I was straining every muscle and couldn’t gain an inch, or I’d gain one
and slide back down, gasping. I felt at
the brink of despair. I moaned in
desperation, I bellowed in rage, the Slot didn’t care. Its iron indifference to my anguish was
terrifying. The cold granite, slick with
my condensing breath, felt like a tomb.
My pulse throbbed in futility against the walls and my raw shoulders
stung and after so much useless flailing I finally accepted that I could not do
this on my own.
Stuck in
the Slot, I rested and surrendered my ego, my will to conquer. I surrendered to the crack. You
win. I am weak. Compared to my
flailing life the stone is eternal. I am
a small blink in its memory, but I burn with the heat of blood and breath.
On his
solitary ramblings, John Muir recognized that as grand as they are, the mighty
stones here yield to an even more constant force, the river Merced, the river
of mercy. Sweating and breathing in the
dark cage of the Slot, I asked for mercy from the spirit of the place. I humbled myself before this spirit. I am
weak. May I pass? Through my narrow
view of the sunlit world I watched two ravens drift past on some invisible
thermal, imperturbable.
I
surrendered to the spirit of the Valley and started moving upward in half-inch
bursts. Where before I could not move
with all my effort, I could now make progress. Somehow I recognized that it was
not my strength I was using. Obviously
it took energy, the conversion of glycogen to ATP in coordinated contractions
of muscle fibers in my legs and back and arms and chest, but was not my strength. The movement flowed through me, from the
valley to the sky, like a wave that I was suddenly shown how to ride. I repeated my request as a mantra: valley of mercy, have mercy on me; when
I stopped moving to rest I spoke this and kept moving. In half-inch increments, whispering this
prayer, I gained 2 inches, then 6 inches, a foot, two feet, until the Slot
widened and I could get a chickenwing, move my limbs, and surge upward into
sunshine. It felt like being born.
It seems
there’s a thin veil between our world of clocks and measured quantities and the
world of essence and spirits. Mired in
the tentacle web of schedules and demands of 21st century
industrialized existence, we’re too busy to notice it most of the time, but
sometimes, when life really gets down to the essence, we can touch it. In the dark heart of the Harding Slot I
brushed against that veil. I relaxed my
iron grip on ego and let something bigger move through me. I became a vessel. I was allowed passage.
Today,
resting in El Cap meadow, staring up at the towering wall and preparing for
another mission of even greater scale, I can vaguely remember the trials and
fears of Astroman like a whimsical dream.
This day passes like others, the sun unerring on its endless march
toward the west, but I feel something… different. The touch from across the veil lingers on me,
like smoke on my clothing.
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